Zsofia Kollar is the founder of Human Material Loop, a company using human hair to create alternative fibers.
How did you come up with the idea for Human Material Loop?
During the pandemic, I saw supply chains collapsing and I started questioning what design really means. I have a background in design and previously ran my own independent design studio. If we want to create something long-lasting, circular, and consciously designed, we need to rethink materials and focus on local sourcing. Given the political and economic climate, borders will always limit access to resources, and emissions from transportation are a major concern.
That led me to a key question: How can we design something that doesn’t take from the environment but instead gives back? When I thought about what we have in abundance, the answer was clear: humans. We have the biggest impact on this planet, and we generate a lot of waste. One of those waste streams is hair. When you sit in a salon, you see piles of it being thrown away. Then it hit me. Hair is made of keratin protein, just like wool from sheep, goats, or alpacas. So why aren’t we using it as an alternative fiber? It’s natural, it’s the closest material to us, and it doesn’t cost anything to produce.
Human Material Loop is focused on interior applications rather than fashion because we can meet the industrial performance demands, such as noise control, insulation, and light fastness. These qualities are essential in interiors, where the material’s unique properties are truly valued. In contrast, a beautiful shawl or coat doesn’t need to be fire-resistant or sound-absorbing, and it may be discarded within a few years. But by using this material in buildings and interiors, we create a longer-lasting impact that remains in place for years.
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What makes human hair a beneficial material for your work?
There are three key perspectives to consider: environmental, economic, and social. From an environmental standpoint, using human hair eliminates the need for cradle-to-gate production. There is no need for cultivation, pesticides, or any additional resources. Hair is simply a byproduct of our daily lives. It is a readily available fiber that requires minimal processing. Compared to animal fibers, the reduction in processing steps is significant. For example, the wool industry requires 26 steps to produce usable fiber, whereas we can reduce that to just two. This dramatically lowers the environmental impact.
Economically, this efficiency also makes human hair a more cost-effective alternative to traditional natural fibers. It is not only a sustainable material but also a financially viable one. Beyond that, human hair has several beneficial properties. It is antibacterial, contains no plastics, requires no toxic chemical treatments, and is resistant to UV and moisture. These qualities make it an ideal material to integrate into production systems.
As for the collection process, if a salon collaborates with us, they collect the hair until they reach 20 kilograms. At that point, they schedule a pickup, and the collected hair is delivered to our warehouse. From there, we sort it and send it to our processing facility, where it is transformed into usable fiber.
How do you transform human hair into a usable and scalable material?
We went back to the science behind human hair, which is a keratin protein fiber and an extremely strong material. To make it suitable for textiles, we had to develop both chemical and mechanical technologies to process it. It is not as simple as taking hair and immediately turning it into fabric. There are several processing steps required to make it viable for the industry. While I cannot disclose too much about the technology itself, it is rooted in science. We modify certain properties of the hair and increase friction to create a new, functional fiber.
It is also important to note that while our raw material is human hair, the final product is something entirely new. Just as you do not call your yoga pants crude oil, even though they are made from polyester, our material is no longer just human hair. We have developed a process that transforms it into ādara, our trademarked fiber, which is a completely new material.
Right now, we have about 10 tons of material in storage. We are still optimizing some of our processes in the lab, preparing for a larger production run of over 200 kilograms. We are actively collecting hair so that once the process is finalized, we can scale production quickly.
Beyond hair salons, we also source from large factories that produce hair extensions and wigs. These facilities generate significant amounts of waste by trimming and cutting hair to uniform lengths. This bulk supply allows us to access hundreds of tons of material in a short time if needed. Meanwhile, the hair salon collection is something we are building up gradually, working with partners in logistics, transport, and pickup systems to make it as efficient as possible.
How much human hair waste is produced globally?
Every year, approximately 2000 kilotons of human hair waste is generated worldwide. That is the same volume as the entire wool industry. People leave hair behind willingly at barbershops and salons. Our goal is to capture and repurpose as much of this resource as possible. Specifically, we aim to transform 500 kilotons yearly, which is roughly 25 percent of this supply, into usable materials.
As for who is interested in our materials, we primarily work with two segments. The first is architects and interior designers who are looking for sustainable solutions to incorporate into their projects. The second is furniture producers who manufacture panels and architectural solutions for workplaces and other environments. Since we are a B2B company, our materials are integrated into products and spaces rather than sold directly to consumers.
What are the reactions to using human hair?
Reactions to using human hair as a material are always strong either positive or negative. No one is neutral, which actually works to our advantage. It sparks conversations about why we are doing this, why new materials are needed, and how we should rethink our place in the ecosystem. While we are a science company, we are also deeply rooted in philosophy. It is not just about creating scientific solutions for climate change but also about shifting our mindset. We have to ask ourselves: What do we contribute? Are we more or less valuable than the resources we traditionally use, like sheep’s wool?
This philosophy is reflected in the name of our first material, ādara, which means respect and reverence. That is what we need more of in the world. Respect for each other, for our resources, and for the products we create. The more value we place on materials, the more appreciation we will have for them, and the less waste we will produce.
How do you plan to scale production?
When it comes to sourcing hair, salons play a significant role. While large factories producing wigs and extensions provide bulk supplies, salons are a crucial part of the ecosystem. Not only do they contribute to the raw material supply, but they also serve as advocates and ambassadors. Hairdressers are actually among our most enthusiastic stakeholders. They take pride in participating in this initiative and are eager to spread the word. Salons offer us access to one of the strongest marketing channels, which is word of mouth. When people sit down for a haircut, they talk and listen, making every hairstylist a potential salesperson for our mission.
The Netherlands alone has 28,000 salons, which shows how quickly this concept can spread and how it can shift perspectives on sustainability and climate issues. Beyond just supporting our company, salons can play a role in changing lifestyles and demonstrating how individuals can be part of the bioeconomy. Sometimes, the best solutions come from the most unexpected places. After all, what happens when you bring together a hairdresser, a scientist, a designer, and an engineer? You get Human Material Loop.
What is next for Human Material Loop over the next six to twelve months?
We are preparing for our next fundraising round. Before we actively engage with investors, we want to refine our production processes. This means scaling up industrial operations and securing reliable raw material supplies through multiple contracts. By strengthening these operational aspects, we will be in a strong position to scale production while meeting customer demand.
One of our key advantages is that our material can be processed using existing textile manufacturing equipment. From the start, we knew that if we wanted to make a real impact on the textile industry, we could not ask manufacturers to change their machinery. Factory equipment is already depreciated, and companies will not invest in new systems. By ensuring that our material works with their existing machines, we make adoption easy, which allows us to scale quickly and expand globally. Our vision is to establish a “global-local” system. That means sourcing materials locally, producing locally, but distributing globally.